stripper

I wanted a non traditional detail on the walls of the Tear, so I doodled a couple of ideas. The plan is to inlay a curve into the wall panels. This would be done while the panels are on the workbench, before the epoxy/'glass layer.

I laid out a nice swirl on a piece of luan ply. I used a batten and traced the swirlon to the ply. After cutting out the pattern, I used therouter with a 1/4" straight bit to produce the groove
for the inlay. I flipped the pattern over and cut again to get a mirror of the first
curve.

I fit 1/4" strips into the grooves to create an "over/under" twisting effect.

The same areas after a seal-coat of epoxy.
The seal-coat will penetrate the surface, helping to bond the 'glass layer next.

I'm using Raka's thin viscosity epoxy.
It's good for laminating and sealing, also has a long working time. 45 min to 1 hour, good for laying fiberglass.

I laid the fiberglass over the panel. I smoothed out the 'glass with a clean paint brush to eliminate wrinkles.

The best use for my "good credit" I use these fake credit cards for spreading epoxy.

Here is the panel after the wet out of the 6oz fiberglass.

I needed access to my other "workbench, the frame, so I stacked the panels while they cure. I'll work on the deck 'till I can do a fill coat of epoxy on the side panels.

While the side panels were curing, I bolted the deck to the frame. I used 16 bolts with ny-lock nuts.

The rear of the deck is cut to the angle of the side profile at the rear .

Earlier this week, I did a fill coat of epoxy on the side panels.
This coat fills the weave of the cloth. I'll do some scraping and sanding after it is hard-cured.
Probably in a week or so. I'll cut the sides and get started on the body.

I placed some waxed paper on one panel to keep the, as yet not fully cured, epoxy from sticking the panels together. I clamped the panels together face to face. I tacked the profile, cut out earlier, to the top of the sandwich. (Sorry For The Blurry Photo)

I used a 1/4" straight bit and a 7/16" collar to cut about half way through the stack. Then I switched to a 1/2" bearing pattern bit and followed the profile pattern. This cut finished against the pattern. The two sides are clones of the profile pattern..

The window cut-outs were done the same way.

Here's the side, clamped to the deck so that I could stand back and admire my work!

I clamped the full-size template to the exterior panel and layed out the door openings. I used my cordless circular saw to cut the straight sections. The kerf is very thin.

I finished up with a jigsaw on the radiused corners.

Look! A Door!!

Back at the full-size template...getting smaller, I cut the pattern at the bulkheads. I placed the pattern back on the wall panels, this time on the inside, to transfer the bulkhead lines to the panels. I also cut 1-7/8" from the roof radius to give me a layout line for the wall blocking to be installed next.

On the left, progress on the blocking. I glued it with Gorilla glue, "clamped" with 1-1/4" drywall screws.
On the right blocking to form the radius corners of the doors.

I got this "conduit" from the auto parts store. The plan is to rough in for the switches and exterior lights. I will run wiring in the conduit after the walls are complete and erected on the deck.

I drilled a hole from the outside for the "porch" lights. I tweaked the rear of the hole to allow the conduit to pass through without kinking.

I found that if half of the groove of the insulation panel was removed, it could be used as a support for the conduit.

Here's the rough in secured in place by insulation.
I marked the location of the conduits on my paper plans so that I would remember where they were later on. I have "lost" a few conduits over 33 years as a journeyman electrician!! Document before you go on!!

On the left, the conduit poking through the wall. On the right, the sides, ready for the inside plywood, 1/4" oak.

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