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I started the Coaming by tracing the opening on the deck recess.
After cutting, I started to glue the riser strips in place. I used 122, 2.5 inch strips.
Nick's book suggests hot glue, But I decided to use c/a or instant set glue.
I was able to assemble the coaming riser in about 2 hours.
I left about 1/4 inch below the deck to trim off when I glass the inside.
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I started at the center of the front, working to the midpoint of the
side, then from the center of the rear to the midpoint. I had to fit a
tapered strip at the center of each side. |
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I decided to laminate
the coaming lip with thin strips of ash. I ripped 1/16'' strips on the
table saw. I glued the strips, 1/2 of the coaming at a time, using the
cockpit riser strips as a mold.
To keep a uniform space
under the coaming, I used 1/2" blocks. I covered everything with
masking tape to keep the coaming from sticking to the riser prematurely. |
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One more strip, then, I will fit the keel.
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I glued the layup with epoxy thickened with fumed silica. After curing for a couple days, I glued up the other side.
After both coaming layups were cured, I shaped them with my router table and spokeshave, sanded and glued to the riser. |
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The finished coaming under a layer of 5oz glass. |
I took a couple of days and glassed the inside of the deck and hull.
Two layers of 5oz glass were used in the seat area for extra strength.
A putty of epoxy, micro ballons and sanding dust was used to fair the ends of the hull and deck.
Back to the deck. I
layed out the hatches using the suggestions in Nick's book. Then, with
great anxiety' cut them out with my sabre saw.
The result, two flush
fit hatches. Hatch seal retainers are next
I had some trouble with the digital camera, and lost the photos of the layup of the hatch seal lips.
The process was:
I wrapped the hatches with plastic wrap, then applied a strip of
weather stripping around the hatch where the final gasket will go.
Next, I taped the hatches in place in the deck.
Once in place I made a fillet on both sides of the gasket, covered by 4 layers of glass. These photos show the results.
I did have a problem, though. Some of the epoxy seeped through the seam
and stuck the hatches in place.
After a couple hours with a razor saw,
the hatches were freed. On the next boat, I'll seal the gap better!!
These photos show the hatch lips after trimming with the sabre saw.
Recessed Deck Fittings. (Maroske Fittings)
Drill
holes to fit tubing..3/8 OD.
Sand the underside of
deck.
Insert
rope to keep the tubing from kinking.
Pull the rope/tube assembly through the holes.
Cast the tubing in place, cover with 'glass. Remove the
rope, then the tubing, leaving a tube for the rigging to pass through,
Seal the wood with epoxy.
A Strip Seat Back
While waiting for epoxy
to cure, I started to putter with a seat back. The Idea is to glue up
the strips over a curved form, then glass both sides.
I used instant
glue and accelerator, thus the dark spots. They vanish under a layer of
glass
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I used a 3pound coffee
can lid for the radius on the ends of the seat. I sanded and sealed the
edges with epoxy. Later, I will glue some minicell foam to the seat
back.. |
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I carved a seat from a 3" thick block of minicell foam.
I
sat on the block and traced the outline I wanted, then carved to rough
shape with my grinder with a 50 grit sanding disk. I will fine tune the
seat with sand paper once I see how the boat paddles. |
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Text and Images Copyright 2004-2008, Steve Frederick, All rights reserved.
No content from this site may be used for commercial purposes without permission.
Page created Sept 12, 2004
Last update, Jan 02, 2008
