My first Cedar Stip Kayak.
  A Guillemot, Designed by Nick Schade
 Building a cockpit, and finishing up the deck.


Introduction Building the Hull Building the Deck/Glassing Cockpit/Deck Joining/Launching


I started the Coaming by tracing the opening on the deck recess.
After cutting, I started to glue the riser strips in place. I used 122, 2.5 inch strips.
Nick's book suggests hot glue, But I decided to use c/a or instant set glue.
I was able to assemble the coaming riser in about 2 hours.
I left about 1/4 inch below the deck to trim off when I glass the inside.




I started at the center of the front, working to the midpoint of the side, then from the center of the rear to the midpoint. I had to fit a tapered strip at the center of each side.




I decided to laminate the coaming lip with thin strips of ash. I ripped 1/16'' strips on the table saw. I glued the strips, 1/2 of the coaming at a time, using the cockpit riser strips as a mold.
To keep a uniform space under the coaming, I used 1/2" blocks. I covered everything with masking tape to keep the coaming from sticking to the riser prematurely.

One more strip, then, I will fit the keel.
I glued the layup with epoxy thickened with fumed silica. After curing for a couple days, I glued up the other side.
After both coaming layups were cured, I shaped them with my router table and spokeshave, sanded and glued to the riser.


The finished coaming under a layer of 5oz glass.

I took a couple of days and glassed the inside of the deck and hull.
Two layers of 5oz glass were used in the seat area for extra strength.
A putty of epoxy, micro ballons and sanding dust was used to fair the ends of the hull and deck.





Back to the deck. I layed out the hatches using the suggestions in Nick's book. Then, with great anxiety' cut them out with my sabre saw.
The result, two flush fit hatches. Hatch seal retainers are next


I had some trouble with the digital camera, and lost the photos of the layup of the hatch seal lips.
The process was:
  I wrapped the hatches with plastic wrap, then applied a strip of weather stripping around the hatch where the final gasket will go.
  Next, I taped the hatches in place in the deck.
  Once in place I made a fillet on both sides of the gasket, covered by 4 layers of glass. These photos show the results.
  I did have a problem, though. Some of the epoxy seeped through the seam and stuck the hatches in place.
After a couple hours with a razor saw, the hatches were freed. On the next boat, I'll seal the gap better!!


These photos show the hatch lips after trimming with the sabre saw.

Recessed Deck Fittings.  (Maroske Fittings)

Drill holes to fit tubing..3/8 OD.                      Sand the underside of deck. 
        


Insert rope to keep the tubing from kinking.               Pull the rope/tube assembly through the holes.


Cast the tubing in place, cover with 'glass.  Remove the rope, then the tubing, leaving a tube for the rigging to pass through, Seal the wood with epoxy.


A Strip Seat Back

While waiting for epoxy to cure, I started to putter with a seat back. The Idea is to glue up the strips over a curved form, then glass both sides.
 I used instant glue and accelerator, thus the dark spots. They vanish under a layer of glass



I used a 3pound coffee can lid for the radius on the ends of the seat. I sanded and sealed the edges with epoxy. Later, I will glue some minicell foam to the seat back..


I carved a seat from a 3" thick block of minicell foam.
I sat on the block and traced the outline I wanted, then carved to rough shape with my grinder with a 50 grit sanding disk. I will fine tune the seat with sand paper once I see how the boat paddles.


Text and Images Copyright 2004-2008, Steve Frederick, All rights reserved.
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Page created Sept 12, 2004  Last update, Jan 02, 2008

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