My first Cedar Stip Kayak.
  A Guillemot, Designed by Nick Schade
  The deck, and 'glassing..

Introduction Building the Hull Building the Deck/Glassing Cockpit/Deck Joining/Launching

All of the stripping on the deck is done.
I left a section open at the ends to be filled with a laminated block.
I made blocks from cedar, mahogony and ash, to blend in with the rest of the deck.
 I was trying to save work fitting the strips at the ends, but I seem to have made MORE work.

Before planing...                                                    After planing and Fairing

Another view of the nose of the boat .
The wood I used for the block was assembled to blend with the stripping pattern of the deck.
I hope that the wood takes the epoxy in a way that shows the pattern in good color. The cedar used was very highly figured.

After planing and sanding, I will make the cockpit recess.

Once the deck was fair and sanded to 100 grit, I laid out the cockpit recess, and cut it out with a sabre saw.

I cleaned up the edge with my old-faithfull 3/M rubber block sander. I recently figured out that I could put paper on the curved side to clean up the inside curves. I've had this sander for 20+ years and only now found this trick. An old dog can learn new tricks!!

One more strip, then, I will fit the keel.
I glued small strips of cedar (from the same boards as the outer edges of the deck) around the recess. Each piece was trimmed to fit with the block sander. The ends of each strip had a compound bevel. I used C/A glue so that I sould move quickly. Even so, I took 8 hours over 3 evenings to finish this stage.
Those strips in the opening hold the small strips 'til I get the 'glass on.

After sanding to 100 grit, I sealed the hull with epoxy. I used the Raka 127/350 system.
The product is thin, so it penetrated well into the wood. The theory is that the next layer, with the glass, will bond well and use less epoxy.

I scraped the hull lightly in the few spots where the epoxy was a little thicker.
There were no bubbles since I applied the epoxy in the evening and it cured while the shop was cooling.

I used Raka's 5oz. cloth. It wet out well. The fabric really dissapeared well, with few dry areas. When I did the first fill coat, I noticed that there were ridges under the cloth.
 I believe that this was due to not removing enough excess from under the cloth. Further fill coats with carefull scraping in beetween, removed the ridges well enough for sanding later.

The deck was sanded to 100 grit then sealed in the same way as the hull. I did a better job masking the hull, as I really made a mess with excess epoxy running on the unfinished deck.
I had to scrape and sand all over again to remove the mess so that I would get an even color from the deck sealcoat.

Here's the mandatory "at work" photo. The wet out of the deck was less stressful.
I studied all the posts on the Kayak Building Bulliten Board regarding the process, then said a prayer... And off we go!!

I spent more time masking the hull done earlier.
I used binder clips to hold the glass in place at the ends. I also found that I didn't get the ridges as I did on the hull. I think that it's because I removed excess from center to shear...ridges from edges of squeegie. When I went bow to stern..longer strokes.. No ridges.

The end result of a couple hours of work. I tipped of the finish with a dry foam roller to even out the surface.
It looks sort of velvet- like. We'll see how it looks tommorrow when I start the fill coats.

Here is a shot of the deck with a still wet third fill coat.
Between fill coats I scraped the surface very lightly to remove high spots and the occasional speck.

While waiting beetween fill coats,I started to assemble panels to use for the bulkheads.
I cut strips to length, then laid them with the cove up so that I could glue up easily.

I used clamps under and over the panel to avoid a cupped bulkhead.
The panel in the background is held flat to the workbench to limit warping until I can sand and glass it.

I had a few good sized gaps from fitting the football section. I used a palm viening gouge to cut a square edge in the defective area.
I cut a piece to fit the gouge area and glued it in place. I made a fairing board to sand the hull.

A panel ready to sand and glasscoat on both sides.

Text and Images Copyright 2004-2008, Steve Frederick, All rights reserved.
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Page created Sept 12,2004,  Last update, Jan 01, 2008

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