My first Cedar Stip Kayak.
  A Guillemot, Designed by Nick Schade
  Stripping the hull

Introduction Building the Hull Building the Deck/Glassing Cockpit/Deck Joining/Launching

I ripped some strips to 1/2 inch so that I could get around the sharper curves at the chine. Strapping tape has proven to be a really good  "clamp". I re-use the strips of tape 'til the adhesive is no longer good. Note the waxed paper under the 1/4 inch ply clamps to prevent gluing the clamp to the strips in places where I got crazy with the glue.

I found this "glue bottle" at the local hair supply store. It is a hair color applicator, The tip is small and adjustable. The applicator usually places a nice bead of glue into the cove. I use push pins as caps, so I stick some here and there along the strongback so that I don't have to hunt for a cap. ( I tend to lose things!)

Here is progress so far. Six strips each side.12 hours stripping.

Work proceeds slowly as I learn the tricks to stripping the hull. Sometimes, I have to get creative with the clamps to keep strips where I want them!

One more strip, then, I will fit the keel.

Almost ready to fit the keel. I need to get one more strip in so that the two keel strips will center.

I made a lot of kindling wood for my wife, (she likes a wood fire), to get to this point. My hand planing skills are very rusty!  I cut the center and bottom strips as discribed in Nick's book. It took a while to catch on, but I think the results will be worth it!

Bow and stern joints at center/keel.

While the keel strips were drying, I fit the cheater strips as a warm-up for the ends of the bottom strips.

After fitting the two center strips at the keel, I started filling the resulting halfmoon areas. Each end of the strip is planed to a wedge shape with a bead to fit the intersection with the previous strip. I cut off the beads on the keel strips and planed the edges to a rolling bevel. The halfmoons were filled "cove to cove'".

As the gap narrows, I need to use different "clamps", these are scraps from fitting the strips. Click on the image to see the registration marks in pencil. Once I learned how to fit the ends with these marks, the fitting improved a lot!! See Nicks Book for a detailed description of the technique.

Getting down to the last three strips to close up the hull. I ripped the cove of the remaining strips.
I had a hard time getting the strips in place, so, I scarfed the  2nd to last strip. The fit was better with no broken strip!!

Here's a close up of the "football" area of the hull.
I fit the final strip by placing a strip of masking tape over the gap, then rubbing the tape with a pencil to produce an outline of the gap.
I placed the tape on the strip, then planed/ sanded to fit.

I planed the bow and stern to give me a 3/4 inch wide surface to glue a stem. 4 layers of 1/8 thick ash were glued in place.
I used mechanic's wire as a clamp tied off to the base of the strongback to hold the ends.

After a couple hours with the block plane, the outer stems are ready to sand and fair into the hull shape.

I had a few good sized gaps from fitting the football section. I used a palm viening gouge to cut a square edge in the defective area.
I cut a piece to fit the gouge area and glued it in place. I made a fairing board to sand the hull.

The hull has been planed, large gaps filled, and glue scraped off. Sanding the surface to 100 grit will come next.

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Page created Mar 30, 2005,  Last update, Jan 01, 2008

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