Deck Recess and Coaming
The
deck is finally stripped. I had a really hard time with the strips. The
board that I milled the strips from had a lot of grain run out.
This
caused some cracks and brittle coves. I didn't want to start over, so I
pressed on...carefully.
When I faired the deck, I found more cracks
than I would have expected. I filled the larger ones with slivers of
wood, the rest will get filled with epoxy/wood dust.
I used the same basic shape of the Guillemot deck recess, a little bit shorter and 1" wider.
After tracing on the deck, I cut the opening with a saber saw.
I sanded the edge of the opening with the curved side of my block sander.
The
recess strips are glued with c/a glue. On the right is the recess fully
stripped. Scrap strips bridge the opening to prevent sagging.
I cut 100 2 1/2" pieces of strip for the coaming riser.
I used the shape of the Guillemot cockpit, a little shorter and 1/2" narrower.
The opening is cut with a sabre saw.
After cleaning up the
cut with a sanding block, I started assembling the coaming riser.
I
used C/A with accelerator (instant) glue at the recess, titebond
between the bead and cove.
The whole assembly took 3 hours.
The riser glassing was not so easy!! 2 hours to do one layer of 6oz bias cut glass.
The riser is marked to be cut using foam that will be used for a mold for the coaming lip.
I cut the riser to size with my smaller pull saw. This saw is a Stanley contractor grade saw from Home Depot.
The riser is rounded over at the top, so that the glass will form over it tightly.
Minicell foam, ripped to 5/8" on the bandsaw, is used to create a "form" for the coaming lip to be molded to.
I made a test to try coloring the coaming lip.
I've
been puttering with the color of the coaming layup. I think this is
close to the final shade..pending Em's final approval, of course.
Laying
up two layers of a slightly different shade came out sort of marbled,
I'll do a couple of lightly tinted coats to see what happens.
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The coaming with 7 layers of 5oz cloth and 1 layer of 6 oz tape on the rim only.
The layup is about 3/16" at this point.
further glassing will fair the coaming bottom to the underside of the deck. A couple more clear coats should finish up nicely. |
I
made this jig to mark the cut line (1") on the coaming lip.I cut the
lip on my bandsaw.
I wouldn't do this on the bandsaw again because the
glass dulled the blade ($60). I'll use a jigsaw.
The coaming, roughed out and sanded smooth on the edges.
On the right, the coaming, at home in a bed of thickened epoxy, clamped with binder clips.,
I cut a
piece to fit the gouge area and glued it in place. I made a fairing
board to sand the hull.
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Here's the coaming after
the deck was glassed. The coaming was glassed to the inside of the deck
with 2 layers of bias cut 3.75oz material. Note that the color is still
evolving! |
I cleaned up the inside
of the deck and sanded/applied a last fill coat of epoxy. I sanded and
sealed the hatch gasket retainers.
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Hip braces were cut from scrap bulkhead panel, left over from the Guillemot.
A rig made from a level and binder clips, holds everything in place while the schmutz cures.
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The deck, cleaned up, ready to mate to the hull. |
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I glued two 1/4" thick
sections of birch ply together. I then cut out circles with a hole saw,
enlarged the center hole with a 3/8" forstner bit.
After some smoothing, I had these little "donuts"
I cut them in half to make padeyes to anchor the hatch hold down bungees. |
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I made these supports from the same plywood block. They will support the back of the backband at the cockpit rear. |
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For "hooks" I cut the donuts in half on an offset, the hole was offset too.
Everything gets a coat of epoxy throughout before gluing into the boat. |
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Page created Sept 11, 2004
Last update, Jan 04, 2008
