My second Kayak.
  A Newfound Explorer, Designed by Hans Freidel
  Building a 'Glass Coaming..Other under-deck details..

Hull Work Deck/Hatches Coaming/Details Joining Hull/Deck Finishing/Launching

Deck Recess and Coaming
The deck is finally stripped. I had a really hard time with the strips. The board that I milled the strips from had a lot of grain run out.
This caused some cracks and brittle coves. I didn't want to start over, so I pressed on...carefully.
When I faired the deck, I found more cracks than I would have expected. I filled the larger ones with slivers of wood, the rest will get filled with epoxy/wood dust.

I used the same basic shape of the Guillemot deck recess, a little bit shorter and 1" wider.
After tracing on the deck, I cut the opening with a saber saw.

I sanded the edge of the opening with the curved side of my block sander.
The recess strips are glued with c/a glue. On the right is the recess fully stripped. Scrap strips bridge the opening to prevent sagging.

I cut 100 2 1/2" pieces of strip for the coaming riser.
I used the shape of the Guillemot cockpit, a little shorter and 1/2" narrower.
The opening is cut with a sabre saw.

After cleaning up the cut with a sanding block, I started assembling the coaming riser.
 I used C/A with accelerator (instant) glue at the recess, titebond between the bead and cove.
The whole assembly took 3 hours.

The riser glassing was not so easy!! 2 hours to do one layer of 6oz bias cut glass.
The riser is marked to be cut using foam that will be used for a mold for the coaming lip.

I cut the riser to size with my smaller pull saw. This saw is a Stanley contractor grade saw from Home Depot.
The riser is rounded over at the top, so that the glass will form over it tightly.

Minicell foam, ripped to 5/8" on the bandsaw, is used to create a "form" for the coaming lip to be molded to.
I made a test to try coloring the coaming lip.

I've been puttering with the color of the coaming layup. I think this is close to the final shade..pending Em's final approval, of course.

Laying up two layers of a slightly different shade came out sort of marbled, I'll do a couple of lightly tinted coats to see what happens.

The coaming with 7 layers of 5oz cloth and 1 layer of 6 oz tape on the rim only.
The layup is about 3/16" at this point.
further glassing will fair the coaming bottom to the underside of the deck. A couple more clear coats should finish up nicely.

I made this jig to mark the cut line (1") on the coaming lip.I cut the lip on my bandsaw.
 I wouldn't do this on the bandsaw again because the glass dulled the blade ($60). I'll use a jigsaw.

The coaming, roughed out and sanded smooth on the edges.
On the right, the coaming, at home in a bed of thickened epoxy, clamped with binder clips.
I cut a piece to fit the gouge area and glued it in place. I made a fairing board to sand the hull.
Here's the coaming after the deck was glassed. The coaming was glassed to the inside of the deck with 2 layers of bias cut 3.75oz material. Note that the color is still evolving!

I cleaned up the inside of the deck and sanded/applied a last fill coat of epoxy. I sanded and sealed the hatch gasket retainers.

I glued a composite day hatch/knee tube to the deck with thickened epoxy.
Phyllis' ankle weights make a good "clamp" for this purpose.

Hip braces were cut from scrap bulkhead panel, left over from the Guillemot.
A rig made from a level and binder clips, holds everything in place while the schmutz cures.

The deck, cleaned up, ready to mate to the hull.

I glued two 1/4" thick sections of birch ply together. I then cut out circles with a hole saw, enlarged the center hole with a 3/8" forstner  bit.
After some smoothing, I had these little "donuts"
I cut them in half to make padeyes to anchor the hatch hold down bungees.

I made these supports from the same plywood block. They will support the back of the backband at the cockpit rear.

For "hooks" I cut the donuts in half on an offset, the hole was offset too.
Everything gets a coat of epoxy throughout before gluing into the boat.

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Page created Sept 11, 2004  Last update, Jan 04, 2008

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