|| My second Kayak.
A Newfound Explorer, Designed by Hans Freidel
Glassing and Finishing the Deck..Building the hatches..
The deck was sanded to
100 grit. There were gaps where the cove split away during fairing and
I filled the major openings with slivers of wood, the minor
cracks will be filled with wood/epoxy paste, when the sealcoat is
I think that the wood that I chose had a lot of grain runout,
and was brittle. This was the cause of the splitting. My work could
have been better too!
Here are the same
angles, with the seal coat and gaps filled. The seal coat helps with
the application of the fiberglass later.
With the wood sealed, the
glass wets out better because the wood won't absorb the epoxy, starving
the weave of the 'glass.
I printed a graphic on
rice paper. Once epoxied, I covered it with plastic wrap. The covering
forms a "capilary" seal, and acts as a clamp.
The 'glass ready to wet out. I am using Raka's 3.75 oz material.
The deck after wetting
out the 'glass. I did a better job removing excess epoxy on this
The 3.75 oz glass wet out great! No bubbles, wrinkles. YA-HOO!
After scraping the bumps, I had these white spots. I don't know why, a posting to the Kayak Board should provide insight.
had a few good sized gaps from fitting the football section. I used a
palm viening gouge to cut a square edge in the defective area.
I cut a
piece to fit the gouge area and glued it in place. I made a fairing
board to sand the hull.
The deck with 4 fill coats. Very thin coats will keep the weight down, although, I think there will be some more coats.
The cockpit coaming was started also.
This next seres of shots are out of sequence, since they show the
coaming completed. I'll go into the details of a 'glass coaming on the
The deck came off the forms easily, I kept the extra glue to a minimum, that helps!
I faired the area around the cockpit with schmutz, a paste of epoxy, fumed silica, and wood dust.
I added an extra layer of glass in the hatch areas, this is done before the main layer.
replaced the forms with spreader sticks attached, whenever the deck is
left to cure, or for any length of time.
This should help to keep the
deck the proper shape till bonded to the hull.
A layer of Raka
3.75 oz glass was laid on the inside. I went over the cockpit opening.
I plan to do a few more layers of glass over the coaming/around under
the deck, for strength.
An overview of the deck,
with the hatches and Maroske flush fittings layed out. I kept the deck
strapped to the hull to prevent distortion before the two are joined.
This is how the coaming is looking lately, bonded to the deck and a fill coat of tinted epoxy.
Holes for the Maroske flush deck fittings.
The hatches were cut out with a sabre saw, sanded with a curved sanding block.
I used hot glue to fasten two scrap strips to hold the hatch lid in place to lay up the gasket retainer/lip.
The lid is taped with packing tape to provide a smooth surface to mold to.
I used clear contact paper as a parting agent. The rim should pop off the deck after green-cured.
Foam weather strip provides a mold for the gasket channel.
A putty of fumed
silica,wood flour and graphite powder for color was placed on each side
of the foam to allow the 'glass to lay properly over the foam gasket
7 layers of glass, are placed over the putty.
hatch lips came off the deck easily. After clean-up on the band saw,
outside edge, and sabre saw on the inside.
I sanded the area to be
glued with my ROS to 60 grit for good "bite"for the epoxy joint.
Another one of those jobs where you can't have too many clamps.
On the right, the graphic looks a lot better after some wet sanding. A small, acceptable, number of white spots remained.
Text and Images Copyright 2004-2008, Steve Frederick, All rights reserved.
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Page created Sept 10\1, 2004,
Last update, Jan 04, 2008